October 16th, 2025

Image Courtesy of Christie’s Images LTD.

Whether you want to better communicate with your SA or simply understand the lingo you see on social media, this glossary breaks down the key Hermès terms every insider should know.

While “knowing your stuff” can impress your Hermès SA, never hesitate to ask questions. A good SA will appreciate your genuine curiosity and desire to learn more about the brand. No one expects you to be an expert on day one.

PSA: Learning about the brand does not include asking for a Birkin or Kelly every time you visit—definitely an Hermès faux-pas.

The two words every Hermès enthusiast wants to hear. Preferably followed by “Mini Kelly”.

A bag offer is when your SA gives you the opportunity to purchase a handbag from Hermès. You can’t simply walk into the store and buy any bag you want; all quota bags must be offered.

Your SA chooses the size, style, and color they present to you.

Each Hermès handbag features a discreet date stamp indicating the year it was made. This especially useful when buying on the resale market.

If a bag’s date stamp corresponds to a year when that color or style wasn’t produced, you can confidently conclude it’s a counterfeit.

You’ll also find foil stamps on the front of Hermès bags that denote:

• The exotic leather type (e.g., alligator, crocodile, lizard)

• Whether the bag was custom made (HSS)

• If it was produced for a craftsman or employee

CITES documents are provided with any exotic leather purchase. They’re essential for resale and international travel.

If your exotic piece is missing its CITES paperwork, contact your SA to obtain it and store it safely. Even small items, like bag charms, should include these documents.

These abbreviations describe hardware colors on Hermès items such as handbags, shoes, and belts:

• GHW = Gold Hardware

• RGHW = Rose Gold Hardware

• PHW = Palladium Hardware

Gold and Palladium are the most common, while Rose Gold and Permabrass (a blend of gold and palladium tones) are rarer and typically reserved for HSS bags.

When most people think of “Himalayan,” they picture the Birkin. Not many people know the name actually refers to the leather, not the bag.

The crocodile leather is dyed to resemble the Himalaya mountain range. This finish appears not only on handbags but also on wallets, shoes, and small leather goods.

While the Himalayan Birkin is often called “the most expensive handbag in the world,” the title actually goes to the Sac Bijou Birkin, crafted from rose gold and 2,000 diamonds, priced at a cool $2 million.

Image Courtesy of Sotheby’s

An HSS (Horseshoe Stamp) bag features a small horseshoe-shaped “U” stamp, signifying a special order creation.

Receiving the opportunity to design one is rare and special—think Build-A-Bear, but very, very expensive.

Clients can select the bag’s color, style, stitching, and hardware details.

Available styles are typically limited to the Birkin, Kelly, and Constance, and choices are limited to a small selection of leathers and colors (not everything is on the table).

HSS bags can take anywhere from 9 months to 2 years to arrive, depending on the leather and style.

Note: They count toward your annual quota only in the year you receive the bag. For example, if you ordered in 2024 but it arrives in 2025, it applies to your 2025 quota.

“Prespend” refers to the amount you spend before receiving a bag offer.

There’s no official number or formula (despite what people may suggest).

Your SA is your lifeline to the Hermès world. They’re not the final decision-maker on who gets bag offers, but they will advocate for your wishlist items when bags become available.

Build a relationship with your SA—visit, message, and purchase exclusively through them.

It’s not recommended to shop from multiple locations and most importantly, never shop online. It’s suggested that it doesn’t count towards prespend so you’re basically throwing money away.

A quota bag typically refers to a Birkin, Kelly, or Constance, though other limited or exotic styles may count depending on your store. Clients can purchase a maximum of two quota bags per year, though declined offers don’t count toward that limit.

Non-quota bags include styles such as the Evelyne, Picotin, and Bolide. There’s no limit on how many you can buy—but, as always, they must still be offered to you.

At Hermès, no handbags (quota or not) are available for walk-in purchase without an SA offer.